SELECTING THE PROPER ARROW
Selecting the right arrow is important and often disregarded by many
frugal archers. Not all arrows are created equal and while it is true
that some cost more, if you want your equipment to reach its maximum efficiency
then the proper arrow is essential.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE PROPER ARROW
In the 1980s, arrow charts were introduced which gave archers an educated
guess at which arrow may suit them. The charts would have various draw
weights on the left and arrow lengths on the top and all the archer would
have to do is match up both of their settings and purchase the arrow the
chart suggested. Although this was helpful at the time, the arrow chart
has become outdated.
The design / technology of compound bows has drastically changed in the
last decade and this can be seen in the annually increasing speeds of
the bows. You can have two bows which are set at the same draw weight
and same draw length, but they each require a different arrow. Why is
that? The answer is because each bow has a unique power factor which is
calculated using a the IBO speed of the bow and the bow's specs.
So how do you know what arrow will react well with any given bow?
The best answer is to embrace technology and either buy an archery program
for your computer or go to a proshop that uses one. These programs are
very advanced and eliminate the guess work regarding arrow selection.
1. SELECT THE BOW YOU ARE USING
2. SELECT THE ARROW YOU WISH TO SHOOT
3. CHECK THE SPINE READING
When using this method, you can eliminate "the wrong arrow"
as being a factor in tuning.
OTHER USEFUL FACTS ON ARROWS
Spine = reference to the stiffness of an arrow. Lower draw weight bows
require an arrow (normally less in weight) with a weaker spine while a
bow with higher a draw weight require an arrow (normally heavier in weight)
with a stiffer spine. During the shot the arrow has to handle and correct
itself in flight from the shock of the bows shot. The proper arrow will
deliver more consistant results.
Spines can be altered by increasing the arrows length (to make it an
arrow of a weaker spine) or by decreasing the arrows length (to make it
an arrow of a stiffer spine). Tip weight also can alter the spine. By
increasing the tip weight the spine weakens and by decreasing the tip
weight, the spine stiffens. These techniques can be used when fine tuning
an arrow to reach proper spine for the given compound bow.
Grains = the unit of measurement when weighing arrows and its components.
Good electronic grain scales can be purchased off Ebay for under 10 dollars
and is a nice item to have for the serious archer.
Most manufacturers require you to shoot an arrow with a weight equal
to 5 grains or more per pound of draw. If you are shooting a 70 pound
bow, then in order for the bow to be covered under most warantys, you
must shoot an arrow (including tip) that weighs at least 350 grains. Too
light of an arrow will not absorb enough of the energy of the bow and
may result in the bow eventually failing due to the lack of an energy
transfer.
Most current bows which are tuned can shoot an arrow as close as possible
to the 5 grains per pound of draw rule and still have plenty of kinetic
energy to kill a whitetail deer. When hunting bigger game, heavier arrows
are preffered by some but speed is then sacrificed.
When choosing the length of the arrow, consider that the arrow should
be at least a 1/2 inch forward of the arrow rest.
**SUMMARY
Arrows are not cheap; if you want to buy an arrow with the proper spine
and as close as possible to the 5 grains per pound requirement for maximum
speed, access an archery program or someone who owns a program. Most quality
proshops will have one. Buy a 1/2 dozen to save on costs and shoot at
different bulleyes on targets when practicing to ensure you do not damage
your arrows. Robin Hoods (result of an arrow being shot into another arrow)
are a nice conversation piece, but they can get expensive.
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